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Short Island Peak Climbing


Overview

Island Peak 6189m is the most attempted and successfully climbed expedition peak) in Nepal above 6000m. Imja Tse (Island Peak) is popular with its standard climbing route having the difficulty of rock, ice, and crevasses. To climb Island Peak, one has the option of starting from a base camp at 5,087 meters (16,690 ft) and starting the climb between 2 and 3 am. Another popular option is to ascend to High Camp at around 5,600 meters (18,400 ft) to reduce the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. From high camp, the route through the glacier and proceeds up to a steep snow and ice slope. The ultimate climb up a 60 – 70-degree vertical face about 150 meters to the summit ridge. From the top of Island Peak, Mt. Everest can be seen about 10km to the north. The breathtaking panorama of gigantic mountains of Nuptse, Lhotse, Lhotse central and Lhotse Shar can be seen amazing. The stunning views of Makalu (8475m), Baruntse (7129m) in the east and Amadablam (6812m) in the south.
Alpine Asian Treks and Expedition P Ltd tailored the Short Island Peak Climbing itinerary to support only in climbing to the independent/ solo trekkers. We will take care of only climbing part from Chukung to Summit and return. Your guide will meet you at Chukung and head to base camp. Your guide will give you a safety instruction and climbing gear using manual by demonstrating and let you give a try. The meal will be prepared at a camp.
Climbing in Spring: March to May is the best time with clear weather and not much cold.
Climbing in Autumn: October to November is another best time with clear weather.
Climbing in Winter: Winter could be under -30 or bellow. There could be snow or bad weather with poor visibility. But there still some people who have made it in winter.
Climbing in Summer: Generally, summer has cloudy days which has no good views.
Climbing permit (NMA Group B Peak):

Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only.
March – April- May US$250/ person
September-October-November US$125/ person
December-January-February US$70/ person
June- July- August US$70/ person
As per the decision of Nepal Government, secretary-level dated 2071/1/16, the insurance amount for Sardar, mountain guide and high altitude worker fund is fixed as Rs 1.5 million. Similarly, medical insurance is fixed as Rs 4 hundred thousand. Mountain Heli-rescue of 10000USD is mandatory. The Maximum number of members in one team is 15.
Garbage deposit to acquire a climbing permit will be US$ 500.00. (US$ five hundred). The refund shall be made as per the provisions of NMA.
Other required permits
Sagarmatha National Park Permit NRS.3395/ person single entry.
Trekkers Information Management System TIMS Rs.2000/ person single entry.
Local municipality tax Rs.2000/ tourist (this tax have been collected from September 2017)

Beside the Short Island Peak Climbing itinerary, we also organize a full course of 14 days including
Fly to Lukla- Phakding- Namche- Tengboche- Dingboche -Chukung- Island Peak Base Camp- High Camp and return. Further, we can add Everest Base Camp Trek with Island Peak Climbing as well as on request.


Trip Highlights

No of Pax: min 2 person

Height: 6189m

Grade: Technical (little ice and snow wall)

Best time: March/ April, October/ November

Transportation: Car, van, domestic flight

Fooding: from local guest house and from our kitchen

Accommodation: local guest house and camp

Taken care by: Climbing guide and other staff.

Trip Map

map

Itinerary

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This must be your second day in Chukung. Chukung is the last village while going towards the Island Peak. We will provide you the details of our guide and meeting place while meeeting you  in Kathmandu at our office. Your climbing guide will be waiting to you there. After your breakfast your climbing will take you to do some practical about using climbing gears, safety brieffing and route informations. He will demonstrate how to use the equipment with some basic knowlledge about using rope and etc. Back to gues thosue and enjoy dinner and night rest.

  • Take care by climbing Guide
  • Lunch and dinner from local guest house
  • Over night at local guest house

Take a breakfast at guest house in Chukung and hike to Base camp. You may feel difficulties breathing but this should be normal at this high elevation. Our staff will fix the camp and prepare lunch. After lunch, your climbing guide will give you more information about climbing and other related things.  Your crew will prepare dinner and after dinner night rest at camp.

  • Taken care by guide and porter
  • Breakfast, lunch and dinner from our kitchen
  • Over night at the tent.

After breakfast at base camp, you will trek to high camp. Our staff will fix the camp. They serve the lunch and you can start preparing for tomorrow. Your climbing guide will work about the climbing route and fix some rope to make easy tomorrow. Attempting from high camp gives you feeling of the succesful ascent of Island Peak. Evening back to camp and night rest.

  • Taken care by guide and porter
  • Breakfast, lunch and dinner from our kitchen
  • Over night at the tent

This is a big day. Wake up early in the morning and have early breakst. pack your day pack (climbing food, hot water and other climbing gears and start climbing. Your guide will be in the lead. The first part is a bit steep and some crevasse. The final part is gradually rising to the top. Summit the peak, take photograph, experience the giant Himalayas above 6000m and back to base camp.

  • Taken care by climbing guide
  • Breakfast and dinner from our kitchen.
  • You will carry your lunch and water with you.
  • Over night at the tent

What are included?

  • Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner whilst while in camping
  • Applicable trekking and climbing permits and fees
  • Camping equipment including 2-man tents, sleeping mat while in camp
  • Trekking staff including Climbing guide and porter
  • Kitchen and utensils for our 3 day camp.
  • Comprehensive First aid medical kit with the guide.
  • Insurance for the trekking staff. (insurance as per state law)
  • All the government tax and our (AATE) service charges.

What are not included?

  • Meal, logistic, gudie or porter while trekking
  • Personal climbing equipment (they can be hire in Chukung as well as)
  • Domestic and International flights, Visa and passport fees (we can buy your ticket to Lukla and return on request.
  • Travel insurance and Emergency evacuation
  • Tips and gratuities (crew will expect the tipping)
  • Costs arising from unforeseen events outside the control of AATE.
  • Personal expenses such as drinks, postage, laundry
  • Your travel insurance (for travel, cancellation, accident, health, emergency evacuation and loss of life, theft of or damage to personal effects).
  • Costs arising from unforeseen events outside the control of AATE.
  • All other services not included in the “cost includes" section above.

Trip Enquiry

The itinerary listed is a guideline and standard pattern which we provide you. This trekking can be modified according to your time and requirements. We will be pleased if you provide every minor details about your trip.

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Trip reviews

very happy and satisfied


Travelling Year: 2012

In short, I was very happy and satisfied with their friendly and professional service and support during my trip of Jiri to Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Climbing. Since I have been dreaming about trekking and climbing in Nepal for many years. Finding the right people to help me turn my dream to reality was of utmost importance needless to say. So they were very responsive and efficient in terms of organizing and running the itinerary. And also very friendly and courteous.

Thank you all the staff @ AATE. For helping me live the dream for other trekking plans. I have in mind in the upcoming season. I will never hesitate to go with AATE again and definitely recommend them to my family and all other acquaintances who wish to trek in Nepal.

God Bless


Frequently asked questions

Yes, you can hire a personal climbing grears in chukung. The local guest houses rent the gears as they have been buying those gears from climbers and rent them. But please be aware of your shoe size that there may not have too small and too big sized boot. The price of the gears are not fixed.
Our office is located in Thamel Kathmandu. You can drop by to our office to collect your climbing permit and at the same time you can pay. We accept credit card, bank transfer or cash US$, Euro, Yen or other convertible currency. The rate of exchange will be as central bank of Nepal of that day. While paying by credit card, you will be charge 4% aditional on top of your bill.
We will provide you a fully experienced climbing guide with good command in English. He will have a climbing guide license from Nepal Mountaineering Association.
We will give you the details of your climbing guide with his contact mobile number, guest house in Chukung etc in our meeting in Kathmandu.
We would like to assure you that our climbing guide will try all his best to take you to the summit the peak. But if your physical condition is not in good condition,if the weather is getting worse or you want to quit, that would not be our fault and we will have no refund. If you cant climb due to our guide fault, we will refund you deducting the used services or used services like air ticket, permit or etc. We will not take any responsibility of your personal climbing gears which you bring from country or hire them in Nepal.