Island Peak 6189m is the most attempted and successfully climbed expedition peak) in Nepal above 6000m. Imja Tse (Island Peak) is popular with its standard climbing route having the difficulty of rock, ice, and crevasses. To climb Island Peak, one has the option of starting from a base camp at 5,087 meters (16,690 ft) and starting the climb between 2 and 3 am. Another popular option is to ascend to High Camp at around 5,600 meters (18,400 ft) to reduce the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. From high camp, the route through the glacier and proceeds up to a steep snow and ice slope. The ultimate climb up a 60 – 70-degree vertical face about 150 meters to the summit ridge. From the top of Island Peak, Mt. Everest can be seen about 10km to the north. The breathtaking panorama of gigantic mountains of Nuptse, Lhotse, Lhotse central and Lhotse Shar can be seen amazing. The stunning views of Makalu (8475m), Baruntse (7129m) in the east and Amadablam (6812m) in the south.
Alpine Asian Treks and Expedition P Ltd tailored the Short Island Peak Climbing itinerary to support only in climbing to the independent/ solo trekkers. We will take care of only climbing part from Chukung to Summit and return. Your guide will meet you at Chukung and head to base camp. Your guide will give you a safety instruction and climbing gear using manual by demonstrating and let you give a try. The meal will be prepared at a camp.
Climbing in Spring: March to May is the best time with clear weather and not much cold.
Climbing in Autumn: October to November is another best time with clear weather.
Climbing in Winter: Winter could be under -30 or bellow. There could be snow or bad weather with poor visibility. But there still some people who have made it in winter.
Climbing in Summer: Generally, summer has cloudy days which has no good views.
Climbing permit (NMA Group B Peak):
Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only.
March – April- May US$250/ person
September-October-November US$125/ person
December-January-February US$70/ person
June- July- August US$70/ person
As per the decision of Nepal Government, secretary-level dated 2071/1/16, the insurance amount for Sardar, mountain guide and high altitude worker fund is fixed as Rs 1.5 million. Similarly, medical insurance is fixed as Rs 4 hundred thousand. Mountain Heli-rescue of 10000USD is mandatory. The Maximum number of members in one team is 15.
Garbage deposit to acquire a climbing permit will be US$ 500.00. (US$ five hundred). The refund shall be made as per the provisions of NMA.
Other required permits
Sagarmatha National Park Permit NRS.3395/ person single entry.
Trekkers Information Management System TIMS Rs.2000/ person single entry.
Local municipality tax Rs.2000/ tourist (this tax have been collected from September 2017)
Beside the Short Island Peak Climbing itinerary, we also organize a full course of 14 days including
Fly to Lukla- Phakding- Namche- Tengboche- Dingboche -Chukung- Island Peak Base Camp- High Camp and return. Further, we can add Everest Base Camp Trek with Island Peak Climbing as well as on request.
No of Pax: min 2 person
Height: 6189m
Grade: Technical (little ice and snow wall)
Best time: March/ April, October/ November
Transportation: Car, van, domestic flight
Fooding: from local guest house and from our kitchen
Accommodation: local guest house and camp
Taken care by: Climbing guide and other staff.
This must be your second day in Chukung. Chukung is the last village while going towards the Island Peak. We will provide you the details of our guide and meeting place while meeeting you in Kathmandu at our office. Your climbing guide will be waiting to you there. After your breakfast your climbing will take you to do some practical about using climbing gears, safety brieffing and route informations. He will demonstrate how to use the equipment with some basic knowlledge about using rope and etc. Back to gues thosue and enjoy dinner and night rest.
Take a breakfast at guest house in Chukung and hike to Base camp. You may feel difficulties breathing but this should be normal at this high elevation. Our staff will fix the camp and prepare lunch. After lunch, your climbing guide will give you more information about climbing and other related things. Your crew will prepare dinner and after dinner night rest at camp.
After breakfast at base camp, you will trek to high camp. Our staff will fix the camp. They serve the lunch and you can start preparing for tomorrow. Your climbing guide will work about the climbing route and fix some rope to make easy tomorrow. Attempting from high camp gives you feeling of the succesful ascent of Island Peak. Evening back to camp and night rest.
This is a big day. Wake up early in the morning and have early breakst. pack your day pack (climbing food, hot water and other climbing gears and start climbing. Your guide will be in the lead. The first part is a bit steep and some crevasse. The final part is gradually rising to the top. Summit the peak, take photograph, experience the giant Himalayas above 6000m and back to base camp.
The itinerary listed is a guideline and standard pattern which we provide you. This trekking can be modified according to your time and requirements. We will be pleased if you provide every minor details about your trip.